Billy Hack – Wall of Billy

Because everyone has done one. Ikea has a few timeless products that get hacked over and over and I hope they never phase them out. One of which was Tarva – those are gone but another is the Billy. It seems that every diy site has a Billy hack somewhere and ours isn’t anything special – except that it’s ours. I had been planning a wall of Billy since the design of our master bedroom. Sure, I could have built my own bookshelves from scratch – and I’ve done that when the dimensions didn’t fit something Ikea had that I could hack. But I chose Billy for this because the dimensions worked and also the cost of using the Billy was only 100 bucks more but came painted, cut, finished and ready to use. If you are looking to do this on the cheap and you have plenty of time then build your bookcases out of sanded plywood, sand, prime and paint them…but if you are willing to just spend a little bit more and save yourself some serious time using the Billy just makes perfect sense.

So, without further ado, our wall of billy:billy-bookcase-hack-3Everyone has different storage needs and space. We were able to fit two standard Billy’s on the left side (31.5″ wide) one half width (15.75″) between them and one standard Billy on the right. We did not use the height extensions. Our room has 8′ ceilings. Mike and I built a platform to put the Billy’s on so that we could use the same baseboards we have throughout the house to make them appear built in. Then I added trim to the top that matches the trim I put in around all the windows.

Step 1: build your Billy’s – preferably in the room you want them and put them in their relative space. We attach the backs with a stapler rather than going crazy with the billion teeny tiny nails they provide. We separated the Billy’s by 3/4″ – basically the width of the plywood we had leftover from another project. I knew I wanted to add trim to the front of the Billy’s to hide the gaps and that seemed to be just the right width for 1×3″ trim. See the gaps?billy-hack-4

Now take a really, poorly exposed picture of how happy you are to have put together four Ikea items without any meltdowns.billy-hack-5

Step 2: now that your Billy’s are in place you can measure and build your platform. We built the platform out of 3/4″ plywood that we just finish nailed together along with a 3/4″ top. We had this 3/4″ left over from something else, you can use whatever you have as long as you take care to make it square and structurally stable. We made it flush with the billy bookcases that would sit on it so all the trim would line up. It is about 5″ tall.billy-hack-6 billy-hack-7

Step 3: attach the billy’s to the platform. We used screws to attach them into the platform in areas that would be covered with trim. Be sure to use shims and a large level to make sure everything is level and square. We then attached the billy’s together by screwing through the 3/4″ filler between them. This all got concealed behind trim.billy-hack-10

Step 4: secure the billy’s to the wall. We live in California and an earthquake could easily shake these over so we never skip this step. We used the brackets that come with the bookcases and some more leftover wood screwed into the studs in the wall. We used 2 1/2″ long screws. This put the screws about 1.25″ into the stud. We used two screws per stud.billy-hack-11

Step 5: add the trim. I installed the vertical pieces first. I purposely took them all the way to the ground and extended them 2.25″ over each top.billy-hack-9

Next I added trim between the verticals. I used 1×3 for the top horizontals and verticals and 1 x 8 for bottom the horizontals. billy-hack-trim-2

Attach the baseboards and realize there is a nice gap that needs to be filled between the bookcase base and the horizontal trim. Nail some 1/4″ lattice wood in the gap and soften the edge with a 3/8″ dowel. I glued the dowel in place with caulk. Also, for the baseboards, I didn’t remove the baseboards behind the bookcases. Mike didn’t want me to, one because I had finally just finished caulking and touching them up since the addition and two, just in case we ever wanted to remove the bookcases (yeah right – these things are the best part of our room). In order to leave them in place and join the new baseboards to it I coped the interior corner joints. I have a really great trick for using your miter saw to cope joints if you’re ever interested. Careful though, once you learn to cope you may never join baseboards together in any other way!billy-hack-2billy-hack-3

In order to add the crown trim we had to nail some filler to the ceiling so that the crown had something to attach to. These sit about 3/4″ back from the face and sides of the bookcases so that the crown trim sits flush on top of the bookcase. See the pics. billy-hack-12billy-before-paint

To clarify, the tall, flat part of the crown is 1x the height of the space between the billy and the ceiling and nailed into that board we put on the ceiling and a couple of boards we attached to the top of the billy that also secured all the billy’s together on the top. Our roof trusses run perpendicular to the bookcases so we were able to attach the ceiling board right into them. If you aren’t able to do this use drywall anchors when you attach your board.

I miter cut the corners so that the seams aren’t visible. Then I covered the seam between the 1×3 and the top with some square trim. The crown was just a larger more ornate version of the crown on our windows. I also attached some of that lattice to the front of each shelf. Then I filled all the holes, caulked all the seams, lightly hand sanded everything and wiped it all down, primed the bare wood surfaces and then painted everything with two coats of my favorite trim paint – Ben Moore Decorator’s White in a semi-gloss finish.


Step 6: dress them up! Then take some more poorly exposed photos to show them off!billy-bookcase-hack-2 billy-bookcase-hack


DIY Lace Bottom Bikini Swimsuit

It’s spring and every spring I clean out my closet (or at least when I am avoiding painting trim – so sick of painting). Today I found a swimsuit I’ve had for over a decade. I was about to toss it in the Goodwill pile when I thought, what the heck, maybe I can re-purpose it (another thing I should avoid: starting more projects but Mike’s at work so he can’t stop me). Anyhow, I found a pair of lace panties that had also seen better days and I pulled out my sewing stuff! BTW, this is very simple, if you can only sew one straight line (or almost straight) you can do this.

What you will need:
Bikini bathing suit bottom – preferable with string sides and sits on hips
Stretch lace underwear bottoms, any kind will do but thongs just mean less seam ripping (i.e. less work)
Sewing machine
Sewing pins
Seam ripper

Here are the pieces that I started with:
bathing suit and lace

Grab your panties and find the part where the lace is joined to the body of the material – you’ll notice that it has a zig zag stitch. This is the type of stitch you will be making and it’s the preferred stitch for anything with stretch since it allows the fabric to stretch (at least in the horizontal direction). In case you are curious the lace on your thong is the same type of 4-way stretch lace they use on those super cute bathing suits.

bathing suit zig zag stitch

See the zig zag stitch circled in red? We are removing this so we can separate the lace from the panties. Don’t remove it from the lace side, remove from the material side so that you leave the lace intact. Turn it over and see the zig zag on the other side? Grab your seam ripper and start pulling out the threads.

bathing suit zig zag stitch2

If you prefer, once you’ve cut a couple you can go from the inside seam between the two fabrics:bathing suit seam rip

When you’ve freed your lace, you’ll have something like this:
bathing suit lace and suit

Now, grab the swimsuit bottoms and starting at the front, fold the front piece in half – this is how you will find the center of your piece.
bathing suit finding center

Take your lace and find the center of that and pin the two pieces together. Let the lace go on the outside of your suit with .25-.5″ seam allowance and the rest becomes the new waistband:

bathing suit pinning center

Now pin the lace to the suit on the outside edges of the front triangle – just where the strings start. Turn the suit over and find the center of the backside and pin the lace the same way.

Using your zig zag stitch, it’s stitch #4 on my sewing machine sew the two pieces together, make sure you backstitch on either end:
bathing suit 4
bathing suit sewing zig zag

You only need to sew the lace onto the suit between the string ends (between your edge pins).  The lace will not be attached where it sits on your hips, just like when it was attached to the panties.

When you’re done, cut the strings off. Enjoy your “new” suit.

bathing suit with lace diy

Ps: I also added the scrunch butt to this bottom. If you want to know how it’s super easy you just add a .25″ wide piece of elastic 2/3 down the center back (starting at the top) sew with a zig zag stitch and make sure you pull tension on the elastic as you see so it creates the scrunch when you’re done.

DIY Painting Your Kitchen Cabinets the Right Way

Kitchen before and after
I’m going to admit something. When I sat down to write this I felt pretty good that I didn’t have to go out in my garage and paint any more kitchen cabinets. I am really happy with the final product but the actual project takes a lot of patience and space. I have four kids, I work and I’m usually found chauffeuring my kids around. My husband also works a job that keeps him away from home 48 hours at a time. It took me a few weeks to paint all of our kitchen cabinets and I did them in three phases: bases, uppers, then just the bar. If I was able to do all the doors and drawers at once I probably could have done this project in 3-4 days – depending on how motivated I was and how much help I had with the kids. Why am I telling you this? Because if you think you can’t do it, you can. This is the 2nd time I’ve painted an entire kitchen of cabinets and I doubt it will be my last. I created a list of products that I’ve decided I wouldn’t do the project ever again without, check it out here.

Here are the Cliff Notes (scroll down for pictures and greater detail):

  1. Remove doors/drawer fronts and all hardware. Store the hardware and screws all together in a big tuperware or ziploc. Some people like to label everything at this point with some painters tape. Working from left to right or right to left (whichever side of the brain you use I guess).
    Example: BDR1 (base drawer 1) UDO1 (upper door 1). I didn’t do this. Since I worked in 3 phases I just removed all the bases in one direction and kept them in the same spots when I painted them. Then I did the same for the uppers and then the bar. It worked just fine and nothing got mixed up. But it is worth mentioning for those that are taking on the entire kitchen at once. You just stick the tape to the side you aren’t painting then move it to the other side to paint that side.
  2. If there are rubber/silicone bumper pads on the backs remove them now don’t try and paint over them. Once you remove them use Goo Gone to remove the sticky residue they leave behind. Then clean the doors/drawers and frames using TSP or dish soap and water and scrub off all of the dirt and grease. Don’t skip this step. Just do it. I know, prep work sucks.
  3. Lay your doors/drawers out on styrofoam cups to elevate them off of the floor or tables or where ever you have designated as your “drying” area. I used 4 cups per door and 2 per drawer front.
  4. Using a tack cloth or a sponge, wipe the liquid sander/deglosser over all the door/drawer fronts wait 10 minutes, repeat. Flip them over and do the same to the back. During the 10 minutes of dry time for the fronts wipe the deglosser onto your cabinet frames and then come back and do it again while your backs dry. Tired yet? I usually called it good for the first day here. If not keep going cough cough overachiever.
  5. Thin your primer using Floetrol and water – I find my sprayer works best when I thin to 40 seconds. (Scroll down for thinning tips). Spray all of the backs first. While they dry go and prime your cabinet frames. I brush the primer on my frames using a nice finish trim brush – 2.5″ with an angled tip.
  6. After the backs are dry to the touch (about one hour) flip them over and paint the fronts. When you flip them over, place squares of wax paper onto the styrofoam cups – this will keep the cups from sticking to the paint and leaving marks.
  7. Let them dry over night or for at least 6 hours. Then lightly sand them with 220 grit paper. You aren’t removing much paint here – just the little dust bunnies. A good rule of thumb is to just run the sand paper over your fronts 2 or 3 times – with the grain. Wipe them down with a tack cloth. Do the same to your cabinet frames.
  8. I only paint 1 coat of primer. I’ve visited a lot of professional paint forums and have family/friends who are professionals and most say that 1 coat of primer is all that they do. I’m good with that. If you are covering a very dark finish and going light – you may need 2 coats of white primer. If you are going from light to dark you may need 2 coats of a tinted primer. I was going from natural wood to white. So medium tone to white. You can see the coverage from one coat of primer on the base frames:
    paiting kitchen cabinets primer framesprimer bases up close
  9. Thin your paint using the same process as with the primer. Paint the backs first. Here is where the patience is really necessary. Ben Moore Advance needs 16 hours to cure. Don’t paint your second coat before this! The long and short answer is the solvents have to evaporate so that the paint cures, if you don’t give it enough time to do this the solvents will get trapped between your coats of paint and you will be left with tacky – not fully dried and not strong paint. After 4-6 hours you can flip your backs over onto the wax paper/styrofoam cups and paint your fronts. Then step away from your cabinets and go paint the frames.
  10. 16 hours later – lightly run your 220 grit sandpaper over your doors/drawer fronts and cabinet frames. I don’t get into the detail parts of the doors/trim, this is just enough to lightly scuff the surface. Only sand the fronts if you plan on painting just one coat of paint on the backs – like me 🙂
  11. Double check your paint and make sure it is still 35-40 second paint – if it isn’t thin as needed and if it is paint away! When you’re done go paint the cabinet frames.
  12. Wait 4-6 hours (if you have a lot of patience – wait 3-5 days) and apply those little silicone bumpers on the corners opposite the hinges on the doors and on all four corners of the drawer fronts. Carefully re-install all of the doors and drawers. The paint will take up to a month to come to it’s final hardness. You don’t need to coat it with polyurethane because the paint is an alkyd and dries like an enamel. It actually feels like it’s coated with poly when it’s fully cured. It feels amazing under hand – not tacky at all.

Special conditions and lengthier instructions:

  • Filling old holes. If you are changing your door knobs/pulls and the new holes won’t match up you need to fill the old holes with wood filler. I use Minwax wood filler to fill the holes. This dries as hard as wood and can be re-drilled for new holes.  I let the wood filler dry over night. I usually did this after the whole washing/deglossing part in the process. The wood filler doesn’t sand nearly as smooth as Crack Shot so I used CrackShot to just even out the surface and make the hole nearly invisible an hour or so before I started priming. The CrackShot or any other drywall compound cannot be used to fill the entire hole – don’t do it! Holes filled with CrackShot are not strong enough to be drilled and too much will chip off over time.

1. Fill the hole from the front first.
minwax wood filler front1
I use a credit card or club card or whatever I have lying around that will work – today it was a Victoria Secret coupon that was on a heart shaped card – it was made out of plastic. Don’t be messy this stuff can be difficult to sand off later. Wipe up the mess with a wet paper towel. You want the hole and any blemishes left by the old hardware to be covered up with the filler – it should be over filled by just a hair so that you can sand to perfection later.
minwax wood filler front
This is an okay amount of “mess”. Not the best, but not the end of the world either. Sands right off.
2. Flip it over and fill the hole from the back. This helps push the extra out in the front and lets it “bubble” out so that you can sand it down later.
minwax wood filler back
3. Let it dry over night. Store your filler like the pic below with plastic wrap or wax paper over the base so that it doesn’t dry out or get crumbly.
minwax wood filler storage
4. In the morning sand it down with 150 grit then 220 grit until smooth and flush with the surface.
5. If there are still small marks that are noticeable, fill these with CrackShot or a similar filler. Wait the allotted time on the product instructions and then sand down. At this point you should have a really hard time figuring out where the hole is once paint is applied.
6. Wipe it all down with a tack cloth to remove the sanding debris. Move on to the primer step.
If you want to remove the grain – like with oak cabinets – you would use the minwax wood filler and wipe it on the entire door with a credit card – using the longest edge to scrape it over all of the grain – filling every void. Then you would have to sand the entire door. I like the grain so I wouldn’t go the extra mile to do this – but you can. You can skip the liquid deglosser step if you are going to sand the entire door.

  • Thinning paint/primer. I thin roughly a quart of paint at a time. I pour a quart into a 1/2 gallon plastic bucket add 2 “cupfuls” (the cup that came with my paint sprayer) of floetrol then 1 cup of clean water. I slowly add more water until I reach the 35-40 second thin mark. I always mix the water and floetrol into the paint/primer with a handheld mixer. This thoroughly mixes the paint and is key to getting a consistent spray from your sprayer. Once thinned, I keep it separate from the base paint. I store any leftovers in an air tight container so that I have it ready for the next spray coat. I also like to brush on the base paint/primer onto the cabinet frames without any thinning – unless it’s really hot – but hopefully you have air conditioning or heating and you have “ideal” paint conditions inside – so that thinning isn’t necessary. The Advance drips/sags when painted onto vertical surfaces when it’s thinned – it’s best applied full strength onto vertical planes. When you spray it make sure you dry everything laying down and when you spray the paint it’s best applied onto a horizontal surface too – don’t stand or hang them up to spray them – just lay them flat. This brings me to my next point.
  • Spray onto a horizontal plane. What does that mean? Well here’s a pic to show you. painting turntable
    I made a makeshift turn table out of an office chair base, a piece of plywood, a few screws and a washer, and an old milk crate. I laid an old towel on top of the milk crate and then would place each door onto it. This allowed me to spray the doors/drawers on all four sides while only spraying in one directions against one wall of my “spray booth”. You can’t really see the base because I covered it with plastic…you can just make out the little handle that raises and lowers the chair. You can do the same thing with a side table and a lazy susan – you know the table top ones that you buy at the dollar store. Just lay an old towel over it and twirl away.
  • Create a Spray Booth. My spray booth consists of 1 Easy-up pop up and a bunch of vinyl shower curtains duck taped to each other, the sides and then a tarp or plastic on the floor. I left one side open for ventilation and positioned that side towards my garage door – which I left open while I was spraying. If I wanted to really dial it in I would have installed two box fans with air filters taped to their air inlets. One would be positioned to push air into my booth and another would be positioned to pull air out of my booth. Then I could have sealed my booth shut – minus a “door” to go in and out. The filter would trap the paint and other debris that ends up floating around in the air from the hvlp sprayer. I also made my drying station in the booth – this isn’t really necessary – you just need a clean area with very little traffic for everything to remain undisturbed while it dries. Regardless, you need a spray booth unless you don’t mind the 2 mil thick coat of paint that would coat everything in a 20′ radius of your paint sprayer.
    easy up spray booth2
  • How to use a paint sprayer. This one really deserves an entire post all on it’s own. Read your manual. Get to know your sprayer before you put any paint on a single door/drawer. Adjust your sprayer each time you use it to spray just enough paint for the speed of arm movement you like to do. When you spray, spray the edge in front of you first, then spray the face. You will want to be about 5-8″ from the surface of your door and always move your body and arm over the surface keeping the same, even distance. When you start at one side, spray in a straight line to the other side. For example spray from the right side to the left side, when you get to the left side spray off and onto the floor so that you don’t linger too long on the left edge move up a half a spray length and then change directions and spray to the right side, when you get to the right side spray off of the edge move up about a half a spray length and spray to the left edge. Repeat this pattern working from the edge that is closest to you to the edge furthest from you. I use the spray pattern that create a | from my tip. Then rotate the door 90 degrees and repeat the same process. Do this until you are back to the edge you started with. Carefully lift the door and move it to your drying area – keeping it horizontal the whole time. Take a wet rag and wipe the gummy paint off where the paint comes out of the sprayer. You don’t want so much paint on your door that it bubbles, you want just enough that it shimmers in the light – like a light, even misting of rain. If you put too much on you can wipe it all off using a damp towel and then trying again. Or you can let the paint dry and hope for the best. I’ve done both. Both have worked out just fine with the Advance.
    home right finish sprayer
    One more tip on using your sprayer, make sure your white straw is in like the pic above. This allows the sprayer to draw paint in even when you are spraying horizontally. You would only have it in the other direction if you ever planned on painting overhead.
  • How to brush on paint like a boss. The key is to get all the paint onto the section you are painting – using any brushstroke you like – dab it, slap it, glob it on – it all works and then lightly “tipping” in one long, brush stroke with the grain. Cabinet frames are made of wood joined together with grains intersecting. You can apply the paint against the grain but make sure you tip with the grain. Work in small sections and keep a wet edge. Ben Moore Advance is very forgiving and has a much longer open time than other paints I’ve used – but once you’ve tipped it – leave it alone. The one exception is with drips. With Advance you can lightly pick up the drips with the tip of your brush. Unlike other paints that you have to wait until it’s dry, sand it out and then paint again, I found that drips could be picked up with the tip of the brush using a very light hand and leveled out just fine. I also do not paint the inside or shelves of the cabinets. Just the frames, sides and bottoms. When painting pay attention to the tip of your brush and where it’s heading. If you’re trying to get a crisp edge – like between the wall and your cabinet – don’t take your eyes off of the very tip of your brush. In fact, get your face at eye level with the tip of your brush and keep it that way. Or use painters tape. If you are painting a two tone on anything – like stripes or whatever and want a perfectly straight line the best way is to use painters tape to create the line, and then, before you paint, use paintable caulk (the cheap DAP stuff) and apply a bead of it where the painters tape meets the surface you plan on painting. Use a damp cloth to level the caulk out and make it invisible. Then paint away. When you remove the tape you will have a line that looks like you used a straight edge.

DIY Painting Your Kitchen Cabinets a List of Everything You Need

paint products

Over the years I’ve read/watched a lot of tutorials on this – the first time I painted kitchen cabinets was about 9 years ago. I’ve painted cabinets using a variety of brushes, rollers and sprayers and I’m pretty sure I’ve fine tuned my process down to a very comfortable, predictable, easy, straightforward and quality process that produces a near factory finish. Now, I’m not saying it’s perfect – because I am a firm believer that everything can be tweaked or improved, but I am saying it’s pretty darn close. Here is a list of everything that I use to get the job done (if it links to something on Amazon it’s an affiliate link). If you want just a checklist for you to take to the store you can get it here.

The products I use:
Liquid Deglosser: Klean Strip Liquid Sander – I’ve used all three different bottle labels (red, orange-ish brown, blue) they all work the same. One bottle goes a long way and  should cover an average kitchen.

Goo Gone: I use this for any sticky residue that needs to come off before I paint. An example on the kitchen cabinets were the silicone pads on the corners of the doors that I replaced. When I removed them they left a very sticky residue. The sticky residue would have repelled the paint. This stuff should be in every home. It works great to get those pesky stickers off of photo frames – I never understand why they don’t put the price sticker on the back of the frame. You can often find it in the dollar bin at Target. A very small bottle will last you years.

Dawn Dish soap: I used to use TSP to clean before painting. But it’s hard to find with the new environmental laws and dawn dish soap works really well.

A good sponge for cleaning. The blue one with an abrasive side. These are great because they don’t come a part.

Tack cloths: I like the yellow and blue ones you get from the big box store that come in packs of 10. I don’t even wash these – I just toss them after I use them. But you can wash and re-use them if you like – Mike does.

Sandpaper: When painting I don’t use my orbital sander – it takes off too much product. I know it seems like a lot of work but honestly it’s best to use plain old sandpaper sheets. I will often buy a 220 grit sanding block and wrap the sheets around it – but I rarely use the block. I buy 150 grit and 220 grit paper. I’ve heard some people will use synthetic steel wool at the very end – the #0000 grade. I might start trying this too.

N-95 or other respirator. Even if the paint says low VOC’s or no VOC’s just wear it. You will be atomizing paint particles. You don’t want to breath those in – you shouldn’t get paint in your lungs even if there aren’t VOC’s.

Small hand mixer or a mixing attachment for your drill.

HVLP sprayer: Mine is a HomeRight Finish Max hvlp (high volume low pressure) sprayer I really like it. It was $70 on Amazon. We have an air compressor and air hose – I’m thinking of trying out one that attaches to that so I can just dunk the whole thing in a bucket of water between coats. Mine right now has the motor attached to the sprayer so I can’t. But that may be the next thing I tweak in my set up. We have a large sprayer that we used to paint the walls in the house and all of the trim in mass quantities…this is not that type of sprayer – this is strictly for small projects that are just a little to big to use spray cans for.

Brushes: I use a high quality trim brush – 1″ for small details and 2″ for everything else. I like the brushes with angled tips. My favorite brand is Purdy but I also use Wooster. The important part is using the one for trim – it’s very soft – so you can use a light hand and just tip the paint to barely leave brush strokes with your final stroke.

Primer: Zinsser BIN Alkyd White Stain Blocker Primer. I used this primer when I am going to put it in my sprayer – it cleans up with water but it’s base is a synthetic oil so it dries and acts like an oil. It’s also made by Rustoleum. If I’m doing a small project I use KILZ Original interior oil primer in a spray can. This one is my favorite – it dries hard and sands so smooth – but I don’t always brush or roll it on because I like to toss the brushes/rollers after.

Paint: Ben Moore. I’m a Ben Moore and a Rustoleum brand snob. Chances are if it’s made by either of these I’m going to endorse it – and I do this without any sort of benefits – except for the “feel goods” from the results they give. For cabinets I used Ben Moore Advanced. Like the primer it is an alkyd – so it works like an oil based paint but cleans up like a latex paint.

Floetrol: paint thinner/conditioner. Very necessary in the hot, dry climate I live in.

Styrofoam cups: or any cup for you environmentally conscious people – I use mine over and over – so I’m not adding to the landfill. I bought mine at the dollar store along with tons of $1 shower curtains for drop cloths and furniture covers.

Shower curtains: I hang these from my easy up to create walls and make my “spray booth”. You need the thicker heavy duty vinyl ones.

Duct tape: To hold my shower curtains together and attach to my easy up. I like guerrilla tape because it doesn’t leave the residue that duct tape does.

Painters tape

Turn table or lazy susan: We have a milk crate that is attached to an old chair base with screws and plywood. I use this to lay my doors/drawers on and spin it so that I only spray towards one wall of my spray booth but evenly coat all surfaces of my product.

Old towel: to lay on your turn table to protect the backsides of your product

Wax paper: I cut small squares of this out and place them on my cups – to keep them from sticking to the painted surface while they cure.

Easy up: mine is a 10×10 pop up. It’s some off brand but works the same and was cheaper. You may also want a box fan with a filter for ventilation. I keep mine open on one side and open the garage door to just passively vent my area.

Folding tables: I used two rectangle ones to put everything on while it dries. Mine fit in my easy up, but you can really dry your stuff anywhere as long as it will be clean, undisturbed and horizontal.

Rubber gloves – like the kind you clean the toilet with

Bucket – mine is 2.5 gallons to give you an idea of size. I use this for my cleaning solution and then as a buck to just throw my sprayer parts in so I can re-use them without cleaning them between coats.

Minwax wood filler. I buy mine by tub. It works great to fill the old hardware holes and as a grain filler if needed. If you aren’t covering old holes then don’t worry about this one.

Gladware – large sizes to mix your paint and store it. You want to keep your thinned paint separate – so you have it dialed in for your next spray coat or project. I like this stuff because it’s disposable.

Last – but not least – a stretchy headband and a hair tie to hold back my hair and some painting clothes.

Phew! What a list.

Next I’ll post the how to part in actually painting your kitchen cabinets.