This console table plan was inspired by the Pottery Barn Bander Console Table. I loved the “gourd” legs on their table and I think they really make it something special.

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I built this table for two reasons: I needed mine to be longer than 72″ and I didn’t have $1,500 + tax/shipping to buy this table.

Maybe three, I wanted a quick and easy build with huge returns.

How long does this table take to build?

It took me a four hours to build this table and three to stain/finish it. If you have a full day you could build it in a day. However, I split it up over two days.

How much did it cost?

Real talk, wood is not cheap right now…neither are these legs. But they are the best part and the most expensive part. Gourd legs $165 + wood $68 + stain $47 (but you end up leftover Rubio Monocoat and I already had both of these) + screws $2 + sandpaper $4.

Total: $285.00

Even if I had to buy the stain/screws/sandpaper just for this project, the table would still be under $300. Because I already had those my cost was: $233.

Depending on when you are reading this the cost could be more or less due to the variability of the market
The gourd table legs make this table special. Without them this table wouldn't look anything like the bander console table from pottery barn, but also it would just be a boring square leg long table without any true focal point.
Before trimming the table top legs the square top is very chunky and heavy looking. The size actually detracts from the beautiful curves of the rest of the leg.

What do I need to build this console table?

Supplies I used to build this console table

Tools I used to build this console table

Steps to build this console table

Close up view of table top with grooves cut and the board trimmed to the final table length.
I used my miter saw to make this cut. It cuts 14″ so I turned the board around and carefully cut the last 2″ making sure to align my blade with the first cut

Determine how long you want your console table to be

The beauty of making this console table yourself is you get to decide how long of a table you need. Ours is 87″ long.

When we moved in Mike took off to the electronic store with a very specific guide on how big of a tv he could buy. I had already built a console table that was going under it and I wanted the tv to be the right ratio over it. 

As soon as he got to the store he forgot everything I told him and got the bigger tv. He came home and the tv always looked too large for the table it was placed over. Also, our style evolved and the table was a little too modern for our space. 

After the flood we moved the table upstairs into the loft for the kids. This left me with the opportunity to build a longer table (since obviously the tv would not be shrinking).

Cut your 1 x 16″ board to the final table length. If you don’t want it to be 16″ deep, you can run it through your table saw too. I was fine with this depth.

Cut the grooves in your table top

Measure 4″ in from either edge and make a mark on the table. Measure from that mark another 4″ and make another mark.

Do this one more time.

You should not have four equally spaced marks across your board. Make any adjustments you need to get equal spacing.

close up view of the measuring tape and the saw blade. the saw blade is raised just enough to cut a groove in the board but not through it.
The blade is centered on 4″ rather than on one side of the 4″ line

Set up your table saw to make a cut just under 1/8″ deep and your fence to cut along the first mark on the board. Make sure you center your blade on the mark. Run your board through your table saw with the face of the board down.

close up view of table saw blade cuts in the table top creating grooves in the board.
You can create a jig and make these same cuts with a V bit on your router, or use your table saw like I did

You just made your first groove. Move the fence over to center the blade on the next mark and repeat two more times.

You can raise or lower the blade if you need to to make any adjustments to the curve of your board. Mine slightly cupped in the center, so when I reached the center of the board I raised my blade up a touch. then lowered it as I got to the end of the board. This cup disappeared when the console table was fully assembled.
Close up of the console table router profile edge with a 5/8" round over bit.
A round over bit created this simple but classic profile for the console table

Router the profile on the edge of your console table top

Set your router up with the 5/8″ roundover bit.

Router bit positioned in the collet to cut the round over and a small reveal square edge along the console table top.
My router bit looked just like this to make the profile cut along the console table top

You want the cut to not only be the entire round profile of the bit, but also 1/16″ – 3/32″ of the straight part. Test the cut depth on scrap so that the result looks like this:

Pine scrap is clamped to the tablet top. Using a scrap board is a great way to practice your router profile and table finish.
I used the piece of board that I cut off to get my router profile depths just right
Clamping the board down creates a stable surface to route on and keeps the table top from shifting around as the router moves over the board.
Clamps keep your table top from shifting around when you cut the table top profile

Clamp your table top to a fixed table and rout the profile to your console table top.

When using a handheld router you move the router counter clockwise around anything you are routing.

Handheld router moving counter clockwise around the console table top.
Move COUNTER clockwise around the table top with the router. Pushing it away from you as you move along the edge.

When you get to the corner, don’t worry, just keep following the board, your corner will square up just like mine.

Special reminder: when you are using a handheld router - which is what I used to cut this profile, you want the edges of your board to be perfectly square. If there are any dents or bulges your router will follow those. 

Make sure your table top is square by running both sides through your table saw, getting rid of any bulges. 

You can also fix any dents with filler and sand lightly before proceeding with the router.
close up view of the table top after it has been trimmed, the grooves cut and the router profile has been made.
This table top is ready to be set aside so we can move on to the next step: assembling the base.

Prepare your console table legs

Wouldn’t it be great if they made these legs with a 3″ square top instead of whatever it is? If you find a source let me know.

The size of leg tops are too large for a console table this size. I think they are actually a bit too chunky for a kitchen table too and take away the beauty of the gourds, but that’s my opinion.

Mark the edges of the table legs

Anyhow, measure from the edge to edge of the leg top and mark where center lands on all four sides of the leg top. Then, measure out from the mark 1 1/2″ and make two marks on either side of the center mark. Do this to all four legs and all four sides.

Hopefully your marks will be the same place on every leg to make the next steps easier.

Set up your table saw to cut on the outer edge of the first mark. We are trimming the edges off.

Adding this clamp on the fence acted like a stop and kept the leg from going too far

Score the table legs

Raise the blade to 1″ or so high. We are just going to score our first cuts. Run your leg through your saw stopping before the blade can cut into the first change after the square top. You may need to tilt your leg upwards at the end to avoid cutting the next profile after the square part of the leg.

Mike positioning the leg on the saw blade to trim the tops of the legs square.
Mike and I carefully cut the sides of the leg tops down using the table saw and a fully raised blade. Scoring the mark first with a shallower cut helped ease tension on the blade while it cut.

Turn your leg two turns so that now you are cutting the opposite side of that edge (180 degrees), your mark should line up with the blade like the other side and make the same cut.

Cut the edges off of two sides of the table legs

Once that is done, raise the blade as high as it can go and run your leg through the same way. Cutting both sides.

Lower the blade again to 1″. Tilt your leg to stand on the square edge against the fence and cut along the top of the leg, scoring a line between your deep cut and the side that didn’t get the cut yet.

Turn your leg and do this again to the other side. Now, adjust your fence in to cut the rest of the side off, using your top cut as your guide for where to place your blade. Raise your blade as high as it will go. Run the leg through the same way to cut totally through both sides of the leg top.

Repeat to the other three legs.

If your leg marks are all in the same spots you can actually do all of your cuts to all four legs at the same time rather than working one leg at a time. 

Cut the edges off of the other two sides of your console table legs

Repeat the same process as before for the other two sides of your console table legs, so that the square part of the leg’s final measurement is 3″.

Mark your legs for the aprons

Measure 1/8″ in from the front face of each table leg and make a mark. Using your speed square draw a line with your pencil down from that mark repeat this to the sides of the table legs where the aprons will attach.

Shape your legs

I used my sander and slightly rounded the sharp edges of the square tops that were made by the table saw.

Cut your 1×4 pine for your console table aprons

Cut your 1×4″ x 8′ boards. Subtract 8″ from the final console table length (1″ overhang per side + 6″ table legs) and cut your 2 – 8′ boards to that measurement.

With the leftover lengths from each board, cut the end aprons. Mine were 8″ long (16″-8″). You need two of these.

Set your remnants aside for later.

Drill your pocket holes for joining

Set your KregJig or other pocket hole joinery system to cut 3/4″ depth pocket holes. Make two pocket holes on either end of all four boards. You want them on the sides of the boards that will face the inside of the table so that they will be hidden from view.

You should have 16 pocket holes (four per board).

Now, make pocket holes along the length of the boards. These will be used to secure the top down onto the table.

For the longer boards make a pocket hole near the ends, then space evenly across the board. I added two in the center but this isn’t necessary I was just adjusting for my wood cupping slightly.

For the shorter boards, make one pocket hole in the center of each board.

Close up view of apron joined to one side of the table leg with an 1/8" reveal
Stepping the apron back from the leg 1/8″ creates the perfect reveal and allows for rounding the edges of the leg tops ever so slightly

Assemble your console table together

If you have a 90 Degree pocket hole clamp this will make your life easier. Join the aprons to the legs long edges first. Squaring your boards to your 1/8″ marks and flush with the top of the legs.

Once you have the front and back made, join the side aprons to your legs. You may need to use the shorter drill bit to fit in between the legs.

close up view of the apron being joined to the table leg with pocket screws
This 90 degree pocket hole clamp from Kreg is one of my most utilized clamps whenever I pocket join

Square up your console table

Measure the distance between the back and front apron, as close to your legs as possible. This will get you the most accurate distance to square your table up. Cut your poplar and your remnants to that measurement. Mine was 12 1/2″ for reference. I got four boards from my remnants and poplar.

Using your speed square, draw perpendicular lines on your long aprons evenly spaced along the aprons The back and front apron lines should be in the same spot opposite each other.

Drill pocket holes the same way you did on the shorter boards on your 12 1/2″ pieces. (two on either end and one in the center).

scrap board held between the two cross members to help guid spacing and installation
Using a scrap piece of wood cut to the size of the space you need between boards is a simple way to make sure all of your marks are in the right spot. Use it to align the speed square, then use it again to add back pressure when joining your crossmembers

Using your 90 degree clamps join the boards to your aprons, this will square the aprons up to each other and make the depth even across the length of the table.

fully assembled base the console table is almost complete and ready for finishing
The cross members help keep the table aprons square and join the base to the table top

Join the console table top to the base

Place your table top face side down – use a tarp or sheet to protect the surface of your console table.

Measure in from each edge 1″ and make marks at all four corners (you should have 8 marks, two per side at each corner).

Turn your leg assembly upside down and align the legs to these marks.

The table is placed upside down in order to join the table top to the legs efficiently and accurately.
Turning the assembly upside down to join the top to the base increases efficiency and accuracy

Join your legs to your table top with pocket hole screws.

Make sure you set your chuck to not over drive the screws into the board. Pine is soft and any extra torque can move the screw deeper than you want it to go and may telegraph through the table top.

Turn your console table right side up and finish. If you want the same finish I did, I will be getting a tutorial up next!

The console table set against the wall beneath our bedroom tv creates a more beautiful focal point in front of our wainscoting wall panel then just the black hole the tv created
The console table looks so beautiful in front of the wainscoting

One Room Challenge Progress

This post is one of an 8 week series of posts part of the Fall 2022 One Room Challenge. This post is week 7. We chose our bedroom ensuite in order to get one large area of the house done since the flood we had in January.

one room challenge logo for shared girls bathroom

If you would like to read more about the challenge or see the incredible transformations being done by other guest designers, click here. If you liked this post you may like my post on how to build the “Old Oak Console Table,” or the restoration hardware style finish I applied to it.

If you enjoy building stuff for your home, check out my nightstand plans, they’re easy to follow and look amazing when completed. Or if you love a good hack I converted my standard stainless steel dishwasher into a paneled dishwasher here!

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Disclaimer: Working with power tools and DIY projects can be dangerous and post inherent risks. While we work hard to ensure the accuracy and effectiveness of the tutorials along with the information displayed on this website, Hambels Get Real cannot be held responsible for damages or losses sustained or incurred in the course of your project or in the use of the item you create.

apartment therapy the official media partner of the one room challenge

Apartment Therapy is the official media partner for the One Room Challenge and I am pretty excited about it because they do such a great job featuring small time and big time designers.

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