medium wood stained vanity in a weathered finish placed in front of sage green floral wallpaper and a diy wainscoting panel wall

Are you looking for a wood vanity plan to replace your pedestal sink? Have you had your eye on something similar but can’t justify the high price tag? I did. So I built this classic wood vanity to replace the pedestal sink in our powder room.

Now, I’m sharing the vanity plan with you.

Some of the links I share are affiliate links, and if you purchase through them it won’t cost you any extra, however, I may be paid a small commission. That small support helps me keep the lights on and we appreciate all of it.

Have the stuff you need already? Jump right to the plan here.

Anyone can build this vanity

This wood vanity plan is very easy and I think it’s a great first time or beginner project. However, even my seasoned builders can happily appreciate building it too.

I used wood that is easy to find at any local home improvement store but if you’re looking for something more exotic head to your lumber store and pick out some walnut, alder or white oak.

Unfortunately, I built this vanity five years ago. Because of that, I had to piece together the tutorial from pictures I took then and pictures I took when refinishing it. If any of the tutorial isn’t clear please send me a message or comment on the post so others can see it in case they have the same questions. I love hearing from you and look forward to seeing pictures of your builds.

Tag me on Instagram @jhambel.hambelsgetreal and let me know if I can share it in my stories.

All of these supplies should be right off the shelf at any home improvement DIY supply store. 
vanity being sanded and stripped for a new finish, easy to see the table leg assembly from this view
This is a progress photo from when I stripped and sanded the old finish for the re-install of the wood vanity. You can see the Wood rounds I added to the feet.

List of supplies for the wood vanity plan

  1. 4 – 29” table legs I used Waddell Country table legs #2921. You can use a different style, just modify the plan to fit the leg.
  2. 3/4” 2’ x 4’ sheet of veneer plywood or a 4×8 sheet cut down (check the cut list, you might already have the scraps you need)
  3. 12’ – 3/4” pine square molding 3/4″ x 3/4″ ***also called wood lattice molding
  4. 16’ (2 – 8’ lengths) pine 1/2” x 3/4” wood shoe molding
  5. 8’ of 2” x 2” (1 1/2”x 1 1/2” square wood or wood planed to this dimension) I bought pine (although the link is poplar because the pine was in store) in 2′ lengths but you could use this to save money
  6. (100% Optional not noticeable if you skip this) 8’ of iron on edge banding in maple or birch
  7. 1 – 3/4″ round wood dowel – as short of a length as you can you will only need 1 1/2″
  8. 1 – 6′ length of 1/2″ x 1 5/8″ pine wood stop
  9. Wood glue
  10. 3/4” brad nails gauge for your nail gun
  11. 1 1/4” Kreg Jig screws (or whatever pocket joinery you use)
  12. 2 1/2″ Kreg jig screws (or whatever pocket joinery you use)
  13. 4 – Screw dowels
  14. Stain, sealer, wax, paint or finish of choice I used a combination of Minwax oil in provincial and Rubio Monocoat Havana you could substitute Minwax weathered gray for the Rubio.
This plan uses plywood for the upper boards but you can use solid wood instead. Just buy 1 - 8' length 1 x 4 in the wood specie you're building in - make sure it's straight (actual dimension 3/4" x 3 1/2").

List of tools to build the vanity

  1. Brad nail gun – mine is an 18 gauge
  2. Kreg jig or other pocket joinery tool
  3. Drill
  4. Clamps
  5. Table saw or have your boards cut for you at a home improvement store
  6. Miter or chop saw
  7. 1/4″ drill bit

Steps to Build the Wood Vanity Plan

Cut your plywood for your wood vanity

  1. Cut your 3/4” plywood board down to 21” x 18”.
    This should leave you with a remainder of around 24” x 29” and a scrap of 3” x 18”.
  2. Rip and cut 2 – lengths of 3 1/2″ x 21″ make sure the grain runs lengthwise along the board.
  3. Rip and cut 2 – lengths of 3 1/2″ x 18″ make sure the grain runs lengthwise along the board.

Cut your 2×2 wood

  1. 2 – lengths of 21″
  2. 2 – lengths of 18″
  3. 4 – lengths of 2″
  4. Cut 1/2″ wide rounds from your 3/4″ wood dowel – very important to get these the same thickness
Helpful tip: this cut list makes a wood vanity that is 32" tall if you want it to be 33" cut your 4 lengths of 2x2 to 3" and if you want a 34" tall vanity cut them to 4". This won't change the overall design, it will just add the height you need.
pocket holes are shown in a close up view
See how the boards are attached 3/4″ away from the edges of the table leg? This allows for the trim to be attached on the front and sit flush with the front of the table legs.

Create Pocket Holes in Your Wood Boards

  1. Around the backside of your 21” x 18” plywood make four pocket holes with your jig set to 3/4″ material.
  2. On the ends of your 3 1/2″ x 21″ and your 3 1/2″ x 18″ make two pocket holes (four per board) on the backside of the board with your jig set to 3/4″ material.
  3. Now, set your jig for 1 1/2″ material and your drill bit.
  4. Make two pocket holes on the ends of the 18″ – 2 x 2 and the 21″ – 2 x 2. Make them on the side you want to be on the bottom. There should be 4 holes on each board, 2 on either end. Make sure you use the two holes closest to each other and centered on the board.
base of the vanity assembly with pocket holes exposed along the bottom plywood panel
All of the pocket hole joints that make up the base of the wood vanity are hidden on the bottom of the vanity. I wrote this tutorial after building the vanity and did not get pictures of every step.

Join your vanity base

  1. Making sure your ends are flush and your plywood is also flush or sits just below, join your 21″x18″ plywood to your 2 x 2 – 18″ and 21″ lengths with 1 1/4″ kreg screws. Joining the 18″ side to the 18″ long board and the 21″ side to the 21″ board. This will leave you with a board that has 1 1/2″ cutout squares on each of the four corners. This will make the “base” of our vanity.
  2. Now join the 1 1/2″ x 2″ blocks (or whatever height you decided on) to the “base” you just made. To do this, measure 1/4″ down from the top of the 1 1/2″ x 2″ block (1 1/2″ is the width and 2″ is the long side and will be the upright portion of the block) and mark a line. This line will act as a guide for where the base will join the block. Align the top of the base with the line on the block and join them at the corners with the 2 1/2″ kreg screws.
If you made a 3" block measure down 1/2"; if you made a 4" block measure down 1"
maple table legs are separated from their feet with the saw in order to add height to the vanity
Here are the feet separated from the table legs with the saw
table leg used for the wood vanity with a dashed line showing where to cut the feet
Make sure you cut your leg squarely along the dashed line as shown above. Cut all four legs in the same spot.

Create your wood vanity legs

  1. Grab your table legs and cut the ends off right where the leg tapers. ***Make sure you measure from the bottom up and mark each leg and cut in the same spot.
  2. Pre-drill your feet: clamp your feet with the top side facing up and mark the center of the foot. Using the 1/4″ drill bit drill as straight and square as you can into the foot about an 1 1/4″ down.
  3. Take your “base” mark the corner blocks in the center and pre-drill them 1 1/4″ down as well.
cut off foot from the table leg has the screw dowel inserted and centered on the foot
Take your time centering and installing the screw dowels. Make sure you predrill as straight and square as you can into the block and the foot. When you are screwing the foot into the block on the base, the threads will create their own secure joint with the wood.
close up view of one of the wood blocks that the table leg is screwed in to
Close up of the pre-drilled hole for the screw dowel

Join your wood vanity legs together

  1. Arrange your legs as how you want them to be installed as if they were going to be installed on a square table. At the top of each table leg, measure 3/4″ back from the front inside of the leg and mark a line 3 1/2″ long. This should give you a mark on the left inside and right inside of the legs.
  2. Using 1 1/4″ kreg screws, join the 3 1/2″ x 21″ board to the table leg through the pocket holes you made on either end. Make sure the pocket holes are facing the backside and you are using the line as a guide for your board placement. Do this to the “back side”/”back legs” as well, but instead of joining the board flush, measure 2 1/2″ down from the top of the back legs and align the top of the 3 1/2″ x 21″ board there so you have more room to connect water lines.
  3. You should have two sets of 24″ wide panels with table legs on either side. It’s time to join the front panel to the back panel. Grab the 3 1/2″ x 18″ boards. Align them the same way as the front panel, with the tops of the boards flush with the tops of the table legs and the front/face of the board with the 3/4″ mark from the front of the legs and join using 1 1/4″ kreg screws.
the back of the vanity panel is installed lower so that there is room for the back of the sink and faucet lines to be installed
Make sure to leave room for the back of the sink and faucet install by lowering the back panel. This isn’t noticeable when it’s installed, but you can see by my stain lines that I had to make the adjustment later on. My learning curve is your starting point.
close up view of the pocket hole and joinery to the back of the vanity leg
Pocket hole joint of the side panel to the back leg

Getting the wood vanity all assembled

You should now have a 24″ x 21″ rectangular table leg assembly. As long as you aligned everything perfectly square when joining this should also be square and very stable. The feet on this should also line up perfectly centered on the square blocks of your “base”.

Put glue along the bottoms of the table leg assembly. Place your base on a level surface with the top side facing up. Aligning the feet of your table leg assembly so that they are centered on each of the square blocks on your “base”.

Wipe away any excess glue that seeps out.

The weight from the assembly should be enough to join the two together. For extra weight you can add weights, blocks or books at the four corners of the table leg assembly to help bear down on the "base". Let this dry at least 3 hours before moving on. 
close up view of wood rounds applied to the bottom of the vanity feet
Close up view of the 3/4″ wood dowel rounds cut and glued to the bottom of the vanity leg feet to add a little height and interest
built from the wood vanity plan and before staining the wood vanity is sitting in the shop
Totally stripped and ready for the new finish to be applied, the weight of the vanity is actually joining the wood dowels to the feet in this picture.

Join the base of the wood vanity to the feet

  1. Using your screw dowels, screw one side into the feet you cut from the table legs in the previous step.
  2. Flip your new table leg and base assembly over. Screw the feet into the four corners of the base you already pre-drilled.
  3. Place a dollop of glue on the bottom center of each foot and place your 3/4″ x 1/2″ wood dowel rounds on the center of each foot. Press the rounds down firmly (you can use blue painters tape if you like) so that they stay in place and then flip your assembly right side up so that the weight of it presses onto your 3/4″ rounds. This will be enough weight to join the two together.

Allow that to sit for at least one hour.

Cut your molding to add details on your wood vanity

While that dries, it’s time to start cutting your shoe molding.

  1. Cut your 3/4″ square shoe molding to 2 – 18″ and 1 – 21″ lengths
  2. Cut your 1/2″ x 3/4″ shoe molding. Using a miter saw, cut 45 degree corners on either side so that the final length of the long side, tip to tip is 18″ x 4; 21″ x 2; 2″ x 6 (you can cut these last in case your assembly is a little off). The 3/4″ sits flat against the 3/4″ square molding, the 1/2″ is the part that creates the “height” of the trim while the 3/4″ would be the “depth”.
pre treated diy wood vanity plan from this plan is outside being prepped for finishing
I pretreated the wood with Minwax pre-stain. This step is optional but with the different wood species and pine it helped create a uniform finish.

Join the molding to the wood panels

  1. Spread glue along the backside of each 3/4″ x 3/4″ shoe molding. Clamp each of these boards to the top and bottom of each panel on their respective lengths, so that the top and bottom sits flush on the boards.
  2. With glue and 3/4 – 1″ brad nails, attach your 1/2″ x 3/4″ mitered cut shoe molding between the two square moldings and legs like the picture above.
When glueing pieces together make sure to get even coverage of the glue. I like to use a silicone spatula. If any glue seeps out, wipe it away with a damp cloth. Make sure you completely remove the excess glue or your stain won't go on evenly where the glue was.
pine stop molding is applied along the vanity top to add an extra reveal under the new marble sink top
Glue and nail the pine stop molding down around the three exposed sides of the vanity. This give you a nice, wide base to glue (use caulk or silicone) the countertop on.

Cut your final top piece of molding

Measure at the top of the vanity from the edge of one leg to the edge of the other across the width and depth. You should have measurements that are 21″ deep x 24″ wide. Cut your 1/2″ x 1 5/8″ pine wood stop to sit flat on the top of your leg assembly.

  1. Cut one with a butt cut on the left side and a mitered outside corner on the right side. The butt cut will be at the back left and the outside corner the front left. It should be 21″ long measuring from the butt end to the short side of the miter. This is how the cut should look on your miter saw and the shorthand I use when I write down my cut list: |____\
  2. Your next one should have two outside mitered corners and be 24″ measuring the short side. Should look like this /___\ in shorthand and from and overhead view. The top being the short side.
  3. Your last cut will attach to the top right side of your assembly. Like the first cut it will be 21″ long with a butt cut on one end and a mitered outside corner on the other. But opposite like this: /___|.
Hopefully my shorthand doesn't confuse you. Refer to the picture above to clarify how to make your final miters.

When you attach these to the top of the vanity assembly they should create an overhang or "reveal" that is around 1/8" around the perimeter of your vanity. Now the total measurement should be 24 1/2" x 21 1/2".
medium wood stained vanity in a weathered finish placed in front of sage green floral wallpaper and a diy wainscoting panel wall
This weathered finish was created using a combination of Minwax Early American Oil Stain and Rubio Monocoat Havana. Havana is a weathered gray stain and Minwax Weathered Gray may be a great alternative. The Rubio Monocoat seals the wood, but wax or or polyurethane could also be used.

Stain and finish your wood vanity and install your sink

The first time I installed this vanity I didn’t put on the top perimeter molding band in the last step. Instead, I used this sink from Ikea. I also built the vanity to be 19″ deep.

This plan assumes that you will be using a standard sink top like this one. The prefabricated sinks are readily available. When I re-installed the vanity I adjusted it to fit the new prefabricated countertop and sink from Floor and Decor.

Home Depot also has a similar prefabricated sink top . You may also be able to find a more inexpensive one used or on Facebook Marketplace or a yard sale…

If you liked this build, check out some of my other plans like these nightstands, console table, or this popular faux beam tutorial.

Disclaimer: Working with power tools and DIY projects can be dangerous and post inherent risks. While we work hard to ensure the accuracy and effectiveness of the tutorials along with the information displayed on this website, Hambels Get Real cannot be held responsible for damages or losses sustained or incurred in the course of your project or in the use of the item you create.

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